] Iraq's only independent newspaper is run by high school ] and college students out of an alcove in the lobby of ] Baghdad's Al Fanar Hotel. Working with a $5,000 grant ] from the nonprofit peace group Voices in the Wilderness, ] 14 unpaid writers, editors, photographers and publishers ] labored for a month to create the debut issue of ] Al-Muajaha, the Iraqi Witness, which hit the streets a ] week ago. In its pages, budding reporters and essayists ] examine the violent, chaotic but cautiously hopeful world ] being born around them, expressing outrage at the ] Americans even as they revel in their newfound freedom. ] ] Newspapers have proliferated in postwar Iraq, but most ] are the organs of political parties. Al-Muajaha's staff, ] though, treasure their autonomy. They learned journalism ] during the war, working as translators and fixers for the ] legions of foreign reporters who descended on Iraq. Some ] of them have been interview subjects as well, and they ] studied the way professionals found their angles and ] formulated their questions. Now they're turning these new ] skills back on the Americans, demanding accountability ] from their would-be rulers. Salon.com News | Baghdad chronicles |