] Though de Amicis was describing his feelings about ] Moroccan cuisine, this is precisely how I felt about ] desserts in Indian restaurants until 1989, the year that ] I, formerly a lawyer, was appointed food critic of Vogue ] magazine. As I contemplated the heavy responsibilities of ] my new post, I realized how inadequate I was to the ] honor, for I, like everybody I knew, suffered from a set ] of strong and arbitrary likes and dislikes regarding ] food. I feared that I was no better than an art critic ] who becomes nauseated by the color yellow, or suffers ] from red-green color blindness. At the time, I was ] friendly with a respected and powerful editor of ] cookbooks who so detested the flavor of cilantro that she ] brought a pair of tweezers to Mexican and Indian ] restaurants and pinched out every last scrap of this herb ] before she would take a bite. Imagine the dozens of ] potential Julia Childs and M.F.K. Fishers whose books she ] pettishly rejected, whose careers she snuffed in their ] infancy! I vowed not to follow in her footsteps. ] ] It went even deeper than that. Humans were designed to be ] omnivores. Blessed with all-purpose dentition and ] digestive systems, we are ready for anything. Unlike ] those of most other animals, our genes do not tell us ] what foods we should find tasty or repulsive. It is a nice article about learning to eat food. And while I respect his thesis -- he's wrong. And it is interesting that he mentions cilantro as a example. I am a very adventurous eater. There are things (cooked seafood) that I don't like, but I occasionally will eat; and I will try anything (guinea pig? yum!) at least once. But I try to avoid cilantro. Because the taste is awful for me. It literally tastes like soap, texture and all. But I like his lactose point. Everyone I know is starting to claim lactose intolerance. The Omnivore - Learning to eat everything. By Jeffrey Steingarten |