| ] Iraq's only independent newspaper is run by high school] and college students out of an alcove in the lobby of
 ] Baghdad's Al Fanar Hotel. Working with a $5,000 grant
 ] from the nonprofit peace group Voices in the Wilderness,
 ] 14 unpaid writers, editors, photographers and publishers
 ] labored for a month to create the debut issue of
 ] Al-Muajaha, the Iraqi Witness, which hit the streets a
 ] week ago. In its pages, budding reporters and essayists
 ] examine the violent, chaotic but cautiously hopeful world
 ] being born around them, expressing outrage at the
 ] Americans even as they revel in their newfound freedom.
 ]
 ] Newspapers have proliferated in postwar Iraq, but most
 ] are the organs of political parties. Al-Muajaha's staff,
 ] though, treasure their autonomy. They learned journalism
 ] during the war, working as translators and fixers for the
 ] legions of foreign reporters who descended on Iraq. Some
 ] of them have been interview subjects as well, and they
 ] studied the way professionals found their angles and
 ] formulated their questions. Now they're turning these new
 ] skills back on the Americans, demanding accountability
 ] from their would-be rulers.
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